Making a splash!

Infirmary Street Baths, Edinburgh... then and now

Update Nov Infirmary Street Dovecot Studios named in Indy top 50 Museums list

http://www.independent.co.uk/extras/indybest/the-50-best-museums-amp-galleries-2112967.html?action=Gallery&ino=39

BLOG UPDATE 20th May Delighted to see that Infirmary Street Baths has won a RIBA Regional Award. Eight Awards made for Scotland, so excellent news, especially so as it was such a challenging re-use. Sad that Scottish Ballet HQ did not receive an Award however; such a great building, contextually challenging, but possibly not quite 'safe' enough for  a RIBA Award?  Trongate 103 also received an Award, full list here: 

http://www.bdonline.co.uk/news/riba-2010-regional-award-winners-announced/5000153.article

Also delighted that Infirmary Street came second in the Civic Trust 'My Place' Awards, with a High Commendation. Given the strong list of entries, this is very good news indeed.

BLOG UPDATE 8th April Infirmary Street article on the Guardian website  http://www.guardian.co.uk/edinburgh/2010/apr/07/infirmary-street-baths-edinburgh-history

BLOG UPDATE 1st April Pleased to see Infirmary Street Baths (Malcolm Fraser Architects, Edinburgh) has been nominated for a Scottish Civic Trust Award by Edinburgh's Cockburn Association http://www.myplaceawards.org.uk/2010-gallery-of-entrants/infirmary-street-baths.aspx

Quote: from the supporting statements:

 Buildings user's view: "...Dovecot as a building is a pleasure to work in - a fantastic re-imagining of a former community swimming pool. The building represents a fabulous contribution to art spaces in Scotland and the UK...”

The Cockburn Association is Edinburgh's Civic Trust:

http://www.cockburnassociation.org.uk/

The RIBA Awards shortlist for Scottish architecture was announced last week.

RIAS Announces Strong Scottish Shortlist for 2010 RIBA Awards

The Royal Incorporation of Architects in Scotland (RIAS) has announced a Scottish shortlist of sixteen buildings for the 2010 RIBA Awards. David Dunbar, President of the RIAS, commented: "We received the largest ever submission to the UK's most prestigious awards and the result is a fantastic shortlist of sixteen very varied projects, including a masterplan, housing, major conservation work, hospital and education provision and even a distillery. All this comes at a time when life has never been more difficult or demanding for the architectural profession and the construction industry but all of it demonstrates that good architecture can have a huge positive impact on peoples' lives and Scotland's economy.

http://www.e-architect.co.uk/awards/riba_awards_2010_scotland.htm

That link gives the full list of 16 buildings, with further links to details and photographs (thumbnails, click to enlarge).

I'm pleased to see that certain of those which made the shortlist  feature the rescue and re-use of historic buildings. As a Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB) Mills Section member, I'm delighted that the already multi-award-winning rescue of Stanley Mills, Perthshire (and once in danger of demolition) has made the shortlist:

http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/stanley/stanleymills/index.html

http://www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/propertyresults/propertyabout.htm?PropID=PL_273&PropName=Stanley%20Mills

In 1995, Stanley Mills was bought by Historic Scotland with financial assistance from the HLF and other funding bodies. The buildings are category A listed, and the design work for the entire complex was undertaken by LDN Architects.

Stanley Mills

Then there's Trongate 103, Glasgow, listed buildings in need of substantial repair, turned into part of an 'arts hub'. Housed over six stories in a former B listed Edwardian warehouse on Trongate, Trongate 103 occupies almost the whole street block between King Street, Parnie Street, New Wynd and Trongate. The building has been designed by Glasgow based architects, Elder and Canon:

http://www.trongate103.com/130/the_building/

http://www.glasgowarchitecture.co.uk/trongate_103.htm


Scottish Ballet new HQ in Glasgow, about which I have blogged previously:

http://nemesisrepublic.blogspot.com/2010/01/on-being-industrious.html

which is in part the conversion of historic stables and in part exciting yet sympathetic new build, an addition to Tramway Arts, itself based in historic tramsheds, Malcolm Fraser Architects:

http://www.glasgowarchitecture.co.uk/scottish_ballet.php

http://www.malcolmfraser.co.uk/projects/?contentid=268&parentid=248

and possibly the most challenging of re-use schemes,  B listed Infirmary Street Baths, Edinburgh, Malcolm Fraser Architects, converted to Dovecot tapestry weaving studios, exhibition space, office space and housing, in the centre of Edinburgh's World Heritage Site:

http://www.dovecotstudios.com/

http://www.malcolmfraser.co.uk/projects/?contentid=308&parentid=250

There are some buildings which are on At Risk Registers for which it can prove extraordinarily difficult to find a new use, and swimming pools are amongst them. Of course keeping them in use is first priority, but for many reasons this isn't always possible. Yet the example here at Infirmary Street, and another in Kendal in Cumbria (swimming baths and wash houses converted to a Wetherspoons pub) are among those conversions which show how re-use can be rewarding, financially and architecturally.

As long ago as 1982, SAVE Britain's Heritage was drawing attention to the architectural interest and variety of swimming baths in the UK, with an exhibition and (now, alas, out of print) publication:

Taking The Plunge: The Architecture of Bathing

The companion to SAVE's exhibition at the RIBA Heinz gallery 26th May- 10th July 1982. It draws attention to the variety and quality of swimming baths throughout Britain. Marcus Binney and Hana & Alastair Laing Published May 1982.

The Twentieth Century Society and the Victorian Society have also campaigned for the recognition of the architecture of swimming baths, and for those with a further interest there are useful links here:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/oliver.merrington/lidos/refs.htm#notes

As the Vic Soc says on its website:

http://www.victoriansociety.org.uk/news/council-urged-not-to-close-historic-staffordshire-pool/

Tunstall Pool on Greengates Street has been used by swimmers in Staffordshire for 120 years. It's a significant example of Victorian municipal architecture, but most importantly it is still open as a public pool.The building faces a bleak future if it closes to swimmers as historic pools are notoriously hard to find new uses for.There are only 14 out of more than 50 listed pools (in England) still open for swimming. Those that are still used need to be preserved...

Indeed, in order to bring attention to the plight of historic swimming pools, the Director of the Victorian Society, Ian Dungavell, decided on a marathon 'swim', and successfully completed his challenge to visit all of the listed Victorian and Edwardian pools still open for public swimming in England and swim a lap for every year each of the buildings has been standing:

http://www.victoriansociety.org.uk/news/category/swimming-pools/

In Edinburgh, the City Council took the excellent decision to refurbish and retain in use its legacy of beautiful historic swimming pools. Sadly, Infirmary Street had been the victim of a fire in the 1950s, since when the Ladies' Pool had stood roofless and overgrown; then it languished, unloved, on the Scottish Buildings at Risk Register* for a considerable number of years, while various plans for re-use were drawn up, use as a swimming pool not being considered possible. I gather that the fire had in part destabilised the building, and so an imaginative scheme which would enable the sensitive repair of what remained, and new build in order to help the cost of re-use, was devised. The baths, by City architect Robert Morham,** became the capital’s first public pool when opened on the site of the old Royal Infirmary in the 1880s. Infirmary Street Baths is one of several public swimming pools that the Victorians built in Edinburgh in order to combat cholera.

A couple of pictures here show the sad state the building, which closed in 1995, not without protests, was in prior to its re-use:

http://www.edinburgharchitecture.co.uk/infirmary_street_baths.htm

I'm a sucker for use of metal cladding (corrugated iron buildings being a particular pleasure) and the modern additions in zinc, clearly 'of our time' (very SPAB...) have given this building a new use which proves that even the most unlikely of  'basket cases' of disused swimming pool buildings can be given a future.

Pics with thanks to Malcolm Fraser, click to enlarge

Links to other information and recollections about Infirmary Street Baths:

http://www.edinphoto.org.uk/10/12_edinburgh_today_-_infirmary_street_baths.htm

http://www.edinphoto.org.uk/1_edin/1_edinburgh_history_-_recollections_infirmary_street_baths.htm

Times property article on the re-opening:

http://property.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/property/new_homes/article6804171.ece

Scotsman article:

http://living.scotsman.com/edinburghvisualartsfestival/Dovecot-Studios--Weaving-a.4365488.jp

You could say that Infirmary Street weaves together two distinct strands of Victorian idealism – the social vision of the baths... to provide sorely lacking basic washing facilities for a crowded Old Town, and the Arts and Crafts inspired vision of Dovecot, founded in 1912 by the fourth Marquess of Bute, a friend of William Morris....

...Amid the hard-hatted bustle and the snarl of machine tools of a building site fast approaching deadline, Weir takes me through the elegant spaces emerging out of the shell of the old baths, which closed their doors in 1995, although its women's pool had been roofless and overgrown since a fire in the 1950s. Basically, they have excavated under the smaller derelict women's pool and the larger general pool, to provide two spacious ground-floor galleries, while the first floor, on what would have been the main pool surface level, sweeps up into the lofty weaving hall, with its elegantly-arched Victorian roof timbers supported on cast-iron columns. Ideally fit for purpose, the weaving hall allows ample height for the biggest of Dovecot's looms, which was first assembled at the studio's old Corstorphine premises to create the largest tapestry woven in Britain during the 20th century, a commission for the British Library.

Generously proportioned skylights fill the work space with light, while the wide galleries have been cleared of their old bath cubicles and turned into a public viewing platform and further potential gallery space...


**Architect Robert Morham, City Architect and Superintendant of Works:

http://www.scottisharchitects.org.uk/architect_full.php?id=200385

http://www.scottisharchitects.org.uk/building_full.php?id=212373


The excellent website of Dave Henniker, which has several photographs including a terrific black and white one of the baths before it was closed, detailing  the delightful roof structure:

http://www.henniker.org.uk/html/_bridges1.htm


Building Design article, Malcolm Fraser on conservation (with pictures)

http://www.bdonline.co.uk/story.asp?storycode=3125060


Unusual pic and lovely comments on Occasional Scotland blog:

http://occasionalscotland.blogspot.com/2009/04/skywatch-friday-little-and-large.html

and a great set of Flickr  photographs, showing the beautiful interior, from Doors Open Day, and reproduced with thanks to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nd/2.0/deed.en_GB

http://www.flickr.com/photos/chatiryworld/sets/72157607552156863/

*Buildings at Risk Register for Scotland:

http://www.buildingsatrisk.org.uk/BAR/

C20th Soc:

http://www.c20society.org.uk/casework/reports/2001/bathing-belles-in-peril-lasting-lidos.html

SPAB (founded by William Morris in 1877)

http://www.spab.org.uk/

Great book on historic swimming baths:

http://www.playedinbritain.co.uk/books/great-lengths.php

Recent Times article by Marcus Binney on historic pools at risk:

http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/court_and_social/article7051623.ece

Nem

PS SAVE Buildings at Risk Catalogue 2010 -Live or Let Die -  order now! I gather this year Scottish buildings will be featured for the first time:

http://www.savebritainsheritage.org/buildings_at_risk/catalogue.php

Last year, All We Need is Love, Buildings at Risk 2009-2010 sold out within 6 weeks. To be certain of a copy this year, place a pre-order now. SAVE’s 2010-2011 catalogue will be available from June 1st 2010. It contains 100 new entries alongside focus topics and helpful information. To order your copy please download the order form and return to the office with a cheque made payable to SAVE Britain's Heritage or with your card details. The publication is priced at £15 (£13 for Friends) + £2.50 p&p (this will be more if you live abroad, contact the office for an estimate).

http://www.savebritainsheritage.org/docs/articles/BaR2010orderform.pdf

See Lucy Denyer's article for last year's catalogue in the Home section of the Sunday Times 7 June 2009.

http://property.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/property/article6432246.ece?token=null&offset=0&page=1

And finally, thankyou, Things, for another link to this blog:

http://thingsmag.wordpress.com/2010/03/30/illuminating-the-corners/

This is just to say...

I am working on a slightly longer blog, honest, one about buildings, but thought I'd bring more Festive Cheer in the meanwhile.

So: here's @fatcharlesh latest blog on er... bogs:

http://fantasticjournal.blogspot.com/2009/12/trumpet-blowing.html

But it's the RIBA ones so that's OK.

Here's the best Advent calendar of the year:

http://www.framleyexaminer.com/advertcalendar/

I like the idea of a game of family Squabble after the stuffing and roasties.

And I'm not sure how I lived without an executive plum warmer...

although of course here's a cue for

a) a favourite poem

b) a ref to architecture

Dr. William Carlos Williams (sometimes known as WCW) (September 17, 1883 – March 4, 1963), was an American poet closely associated with modernism and Imagism. Williams has a theatre named after him in his hometown Rutherford, called “The Williams Center”

This is just to say...

I have eaten
the plums
that were in
the icebox

and which
you were probably
saving
for breakfast.

Forgive me
they were delicious
so sweet
and so cold.


Which reminds me to tell you to add @byleaveswelive to your Twitter lists (The Scottish Poetry Library Embra http://www.spl.org.uk/)

Malcolm Fraser's small but beautifully formed, a haiku of a building in fact, Scottish Poetry Library, Edinburgh World Heritage Site, (it's an outbreak of Christmas peace... ) courtesy of Geograph and is © Copyright Brian D Osborne and licensed for reuse under Creative Commons Licence http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/51023  for larger version and for more pictures and writing and stuff http://www.malcolmfraser.co.uk/projects/?contentID=257&parentID=248

Here's the website of the Williams Centre, a rather fetching historic theatre and cinema once called the Rivoli:

http://www.williamscenter.org/

Do read the history, even if you turn off the 'soothing' muzak, although for the fraught in need of soothing it's just the thing.

All that remains of communities and civilizations, all that remains of their worth and dignity exists in the arts they leave William Carlos Williams

More Christmas lights, Disney's Hollywood Studios. Fab.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_8oET4WWcI

Just don't think of the carbon emissions...

and here's all the latest news from the North Pole:

http://santaupdate.com/

Nem  

The things they say: the Royal Commonwealth Pool, Edinburgh (updated)*

Pic: Edinburgh Architectural Association , with apologies if it's copyright*

Update 28th December: an article from the Herald. Dreadful headline, decent text:

http://www.heraldscotland.com/news/home-news/scots-quango-in-bid-to-protect-our-old-concrete-tower-blocks-1.994682

and useful to note another listing last week.



In at the deep end! *Updated Nov 14th,

to include FREE GIFT, see bottom of the post.

 No 1 in an occasional series of things 'they' say which make me realise why I could never give up alcohol in large quantities, because if I did I might be driven to murder. As it is, it numbs the pain of having to live in the same world as an elected representative who can spout these words, without, apparently, feeling the slightest bit an idiot:
(continued below)

UPDATE 14th November

(No 2 in the series may be sooner than I had intended, I feel the need for  a rant an informed critique re the letters in today's Guardian in response to Jonathan Glancey's article re World Heritage, see blog from Wednesday:


http://nemesisrepublic.blogspot.com/2009/11/hooray-for-jonathan-glancey.html 

and today's blog from

http://independentrepublicofthecanongate.blogspot.com/2009/11/andrew-holmes-slates-unesco.html

Andrew Holmes, it's just as well you have departed as Director Of City Planning, Edinburgh, but your ignorance explains so much...    maybe another blog to explain just how wrong you are...   In the meanwhile, Argyle House might occupy your time for a moment or two, peeps, link at the bottom of the blog - marmite building if ever there was one. Pictures can be found by a google, or from the same site as the Commonwealth Pool pics:


http://www.edinburgharchitecture.co.uk/argyle_house.htm

Now  - a horrible lumpen blot  which should not have been built  and which blocks significant views of the castle, the sooner it goes the better, or a carefully crafted building which speaks of its time (conservation b*ll*ckspeak, for the uninitiated in these matters, and oh yes, mea culpa, I spout it  frequently) which should have been listed (it was refused) and should be re-used? Geddes Professorial Honorary Fellow at the Uni,  Embra architect sorry leading Scottish architect, as the press always has it, Malcolm Fraser:

thinks the latter. I know many don't. But then I know others who do agree with him.  Interesting one to think about.


An architect friend of mine (yes yes I do have some!!!), who I hope doesn't mind me quoting, said:

...it seems - largely - to have been thought about in isolation from its context, except the appropriate darkness of the materials, and the quite nice west elevation with the bits of "turd in the plaza" school of public sculpture over the entrances, now very much period pieces...

He wasn't too complimentary about the rest of it.


The comments box is empty, do post your thoughts...)

Anyhow - as you were, and back to the blog post of Thursday:

No 1 in an occasional series of things 'they' say which make me realise why I could never give up alcohol in large quantities, because if I did I might be driven to murder. As it is, it numbs the pain of having to live in the same world as an elected representative who can spout these words, without, apparently, feeling the slightest bit an idiot:

Ian McKee (Lothians) (SNP):

My other gripe about Historic Scotland concerns some of the decisions that it takes to preserve existing buildings. I have argued about how our built heritage must be preserved, but that surely does not mean that every building that is listed must be preserved, as if in aspic, for the rest of time. I cite the example of the Royal Commonwealth pool, which is just across Holyrood Park from the Parliament. The building has been judged by Historic Scotland to be of extreme architectural importance, and has been given a grade 1 listing. However, it is now unfit for purpose as a swimming pool for international events. More important, it cannot be made suitable. Today, international competition requires 10 swimming lanes, and it is physically impossible to widen the building to accommodate more than eight

Now that an upgrade is required, the cost is much higher, and the time for which the pool must be closed is much longer, simply because of the criteria that must be met given Historic Scotland's listing. The building might be of some architectural interest, but I doubt very much that it is high on the lists of things to see for visitors to our capital. Surely it would have been to the greater public good to raze the building to the ground and replace it, at less cost and in less time, with a pool that is fit for purpose for the inhabitants of Scotland in the 21st century.

Official Report 11 November 2009
Scottish Parliament
Debate on Scotland's Historic Environment

http://www.scottish.parliament.uk/business/officialReports/meetingsParliament/or-09/sor1111-02.htm#Col21035

AAAAAAGGGGGHHHHHH!!!!!!

*Royal Commonwealth Pool
Dalkeith Road

1970

Architect: Robert Matthew, Johnson-Marshall and Partners

The Royal Commonwealth Pool is an exemplar of late modern movement design. Designed by John Richards of Robert Mathew Johnson Marshall & Partners, it was built in 1967 for the 1970 Commonwealth Games and consists of an Olympic -length pool with diving and learning pools. The external elevations are strongly horizontal, in three diminishing tiers with recessed glazing behind deep fascias, set into and onto the landscape. A bright steel chimney provides a contrasting vertical emphasis. Functionally, the building not only works well, but also provides attractive and interesting internal spaces.
EAA.


Some very good pictures etc here: http://www.edinburgharchitecture.co.uk/commonwealth_pool.htm
including this one, click on thumbnails to enlarge.

                                                  Pic  c Adrian Welch

As a post-script to this, there is to be a national conference on post-war architecture in Scotland,  November

Is there a place for modern Scottish architecture in our towns and cities?

Press release from Historic Scotland

5 November 2009

Do you have a view on how modern architecture fits into our towns and cities?


Ahead of a conference looking at how we value post war architecture, Historic Scotland is looking for people to contribute their opinions and comments to be addressed by panel of experts.


The conference, Scotland: Building For the Future, will take place at the Bonar Hall at the University of Dundee on Tuesday 24 November 2009. It will be opened by Michael Russell, the Minister for Culture, External Affairs and the Constitution.


Broadcaster Pauline McLean, host of the conference, said: “There's one subject in my brief as BBC Scotland's arts correspondent which is guaranteed to stir up a storm - and that's historic buildings. And when those are post war buildings - with architects still around to argue their motivation - only one thing is guaranteed, opinions are going to be divided. “I'm delighted to be asked to chair this event which I hope will allow for open and robust debate on all aspects of the subject. “


The day will be chaired by Ms McLean and, in addition to speakers from Historic Scotland, the programme includes Raymond Young of Architecture and Design Scotland; Neil Baxter of RIAS; David Page of Page and Park Architects; Miles Glendinning of Edinburgh College of Art and Janet McBain of the National Library of Scotland.


Dr Deborah Mays, Historic Scotland’s Head of Listing and organiser of the conference said: “For many people modern architecture is a subject that can be like marmite – you either love it or hate it. The conference will bring people from across the spectrum to see how we value modern architecture as part of the Scottish landscape.


“We want to hear from anyone with an interest to submit questions for our experts to consider on the day at http://www.celebratingscotlandsarchitecture.org/  It can be a contentious subject and I am very much looking forward to putting some challenging opinions to our panel.”

In addition, Historic Scotland has recently launched a publication on post-war Scottish architecture, which is here as a download:

http://www.celebratingscotlandsarchitecture.org/scotland-building-for-the-future.pdf

A recent post-war listing - BHS, Princes Street, Edinburgh, RMJM. And yes I love it, especially the lettering.

One quote from the Edinburgh Evening News, when an article was printed last year suggesting this might be listed:

Leading architect Malcolm Fraser, whose projects include the Scottish Storytelling Centre on the Royal Mile, said not all modernist buildings deserved a bad name.

        Scottish Storytelling Centre

"It's popular for people to look at the 1960s and think everything was rubbish, but we need to understand there are also some good buildings from that time," he said. "If you look along Princes Street, 75 to 90 per cent of the 1960s buildings are dreadful and need to go. But in Scotland we always seem to get rid of the best ones first.


"The 60s caused such damage to Princes Street that a reaction that says 'tear it all down' is understandable. But the materials used in the building were better, and it was done with much more finesse and care than the other 1960s additions to the street.

And a comment under that:

Ian Ross,Edinburgh

The BHS store is like a boil on one's rear end, and is as ugly a building as the St James Centre. They must need their eyes tested. There is NO architectural beauty there at all.

In the eye of the beholder etc etc...

How about:

 Jason L. McKenzie, Moredun


More tiresome bleating about the possibility that something in this damn city built after the 1300s MIGHT actually have some merit in eyes other than those of the bleaters. You might want to live in an ossified theme park. I'm not so keen. Keeping a few good 60s buildings would be a start; getting some striking new architecture into what should be a living developing city would also be good. Or we can just go back to all throwing our crap out of a tenement window, if you prefer.

Indeed. I think this one isn't going to be easily resolved, and Historic Scotland will have a way to go to win all hearts and minds.

Nem

Post-script number 2 which explains a little more: Malcolm Fraser in the Scotsman:

http://thescotsman.scotsman.com/comment/Malcolm-Fraser-The-capital-needs.5808798.jp

Oh Mr Fraser...  maybe another day another blog...

Anyhow, to add that required air of gravitas to the new Geddes Honorary Professory Fellowy person, and all others who aspire to be so, here's a little something to consider:

Click to enlarge, save, print on thin card, cut out, and indeed, wa-lah!  

Nem

Old Town

To add to this morning's blog, here's a piece from Joanna Blythman in the Sunday Herald which made me cheer (this isn't fiction citizens, Caltongate was for real):

for more details read http://www.eh8.org.uk/

Grand failure offers green light for green space

REJOICE!

CALTONGATE,Edinburgh's grandiose £300 million development project, looks dead in the water because the company behind it, Mountgrange, has run out of dosh. The company has clocked up a loss of £24m and is so indebted that there is "a material uncertainty that casts doubts over the company's ability to continue as a going concern". As someone who always thought the Caltongate project was a crock of ordure, I won't shed a tear if Mountgrange goes down the pan, taking its ill-conceived plan with it.The Caltongate scheme, in the now-ubiquitous phoney language employed by puffed-up councillors, posturing architects who fancy themselves as latter-day Le Corbusiers, and Flash Harry speculators, was to contain "an eclectic mix of offices, retail, residential, leisure and hotel facilities". It was to add a "vibrant and attractive new business and cultural quarter" to the capital. What that meant, in practical terms, was historic buildings and people's homes being demolished to make way for five-star hotels, a second conference centre, more yuppie flats, the inevitable supermarket, a "signature" office building (spare us the pretension) and yet another coven of Claire's Accessories, Clinton Cards and Costas - as if we needed another dose of property developer's quack miracle regenerating formula...

Continued here:

http://www.sundayherald.com/oped/opinion/display.var.2489244.0.grand_failure_offers_green_light_for_green_space.php

Edinburgh Community Backgreens Association:

http://www.ecba.org.uk/home.aspx

New Town

A brief blog today to draw attention to the TV prog from yesterday as mentioned in the Bear of little brain blog: New Town, a slightly bizarre yet amusing murder story, based around a nasty developer, the spoiling of a listed building in Edinburgh's World Heritage Site, a Heritage Hero from a body called Scottish Heritage trying to stop the cultural vandalism, odd architects with ideas of imposing their own strange aesthetic on the city, planners happy to spoil the city for 'economic gain' and a crazy estate agent saying there is no economic downturn.

So - not so far from reality then.

Catch it while you can on BBC iplayer, BBC4:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00hq1w5/New_Town/

Worth watching for the views of the city and its buildings (but warning of bad cement pointing at around 33 minutes in, architects' garden wall, so be prepared).

Nem

Picture credits: Geograph

Copyright but re-used under the Creative Commons license

Richard Webb St Stephen's Church Edinburgh http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/284397

Derek Harper Playfair's Royal Circus Edinburgh http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1038414

where there are other photos of Edinburgh.

A glimmer of light

There is deep gloom pervading this neck of the Republic caused by the ongoing theft of cash from the lottery fund and thence diverted to the wretched Olympics, the result of such robbery being worthwhile 'heritage' (apologies Gervase: http://caiusplinius.blogspot.com/2009/01/bolleaux.html) projects have had to be shelved. Now best not get me started on why we should have to have heritage projects funded in the first place by such means, but as we have I pay my quid (nothing if not reckless) in the hope each week that the fickle finger of fortune might point in my direction; then at least some of that cash could be diverted to worthy causes of my choosing (and no, not simply propping up historic breweries at risk).

I could, for example, distribute some of my largesse by helping out with the repair of the Burns Monument http://www.ewht.org.uk/Appeal-launched-.aspx, which was mentioned earlier this week. Funds are still required. I see that Edinburgh World Heritage has now added new pictures to its website of the current state of play. I took some of my own in December, when I watched the scaffolding being erected and removal of the twiddly bits surmounting the roof; I really should start a linked photo album for this blog.

This is a most fascinating roof, around which a major part of the repair work centres http://www.ewht.org.uk/Burns-Monument-update.aspx. At some point in the latter half of the 20th century, the powers at the council, which owns the monument, decided to add a roof covering. It was a rather odd affair of asphalt, all carefully crafted into leaf shapes, the reasoning for which eluded me until now. Plain sheets would have done the job adequately, although not particularly atractively, and even so carefully crafted it was still asphalt, and an odd choice of material for this historic structure (that's along with the cementy stuff). Well, all is now revealed, literally; under the asphalt is the most beautiful roof of carved stone, in leaf shapes. Hopefully the condition is sound, and it can be repaired without vast expense and displayed in glorious 3D sometime soon.

When first built, the Burns Monument housed a statue of the bard, sculpted by John Flaxman RA, but that was very soon removed (1839) as it was claimed it was being damaged by soot from the nearby gas works. It is now in the National Portrait Gallery, Queen Street. http://www.scran.ac.uk/database/record.php?usi=000-000-189-961-C While not in any way believing that return of the original is possible, or even necessarily desirable, if enough cash could be raised my view is that a new one could, and should, be commissioned in this Homecoming year, and if that lottery win this weekend is mine, this is the person I would commission for the job: http://www.alexanderstoddart.com/

Actually, the history of gas generation is something in which I have started to take more than a passing interest of late; I bet not many people know that Edinburgh's Princes Street was one of the first public places to have gas street lighting, 1822. There is a small historic gas generation complex and display at Culzean Castle, and yes another set of pics I should upload (along with the ice houses); however, the splendid http://www.hevac-heritage.org/items_of_interest/gas_making/gas_making.htm website, which has provided me with happy hours of browsing and subsequent visiting, is up to speed on this one. Note the Europa Nostra Award, of which organisation more very soon.

There's 'wider reading' here about the history of gas in Edinburgh and its surrounding area: http://www.grantonhistory.org/industry/gas_works.htm and although one of the historic Granton gastowers is listed, developers wish to have it demolished, to join the other bulldozed structures, claiming, as ever, that repair is uneconomic. So it's not just mining industrial heritage (see comments Tuesday http://nemesisrepublic.blogspot.com/2009/01/good-news-bad-news.html) that's underappreciated and under threat. Wiki, too, is useful: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_lighting.

I confess to being old enough (just) to recall gas street lighting, with the lamplighter coming round each evening, and homes lit by gas, although that fancy electrickery had its uses it wasn't altogether widespread. In those days no-one was being held to ransom because gas came via giant pipeline from forin' parts, we made our own, albeit probably at great environmental cost, before we discovered the stuff in the North Sea. For the past three and a bit decades, though, I have lived in places with no gas supply, although have a reminder of childhood with an ancient caravan and the gentle 'Bijou' gas light, with its its slight hiss, which has warmed us and allowed late night reading over a mug of cocoa on many a holiday weekend.

Public lighting wasn't always uncontroversial stuff, as this little gem of a tale in the link shows:

"The Dalston emblem is a black and red cockerel and the Dalston motto is ' Whilst I live I'll crow' . The following sculpture is a modern representation of the Dalston emblem and was erected in the millenium year. It was placed on the base stones of what was known as the Dalston Lamp, which was a monument erected in 1911 to commemorate the coronation of King George V. For an excellent detailed history of this monument written by Oliver Roberts click on following... The History of the Lamp "

(Be warned... that contains the C word... yes conc****. Historic conc**** though so it's OK.

Here's the listing: http://www.imagesofengland.org.uk/details/default.aspx?pid=1&id=78317

There's a larger picture here of the structure as it is now: http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/829054, with the excellent millenium sculpture thingy on top, created by me mate John Parkinson at http://www.up-front.com/. And like that war memorial which I wrote about newly listed in Norfolk earlier this month, http://nemesisrepublic.blogspot.com/2009/01/something-concrete.html this is one of those small but significant structures (the 'petit patromoine'?) which bring joy to our small villages, alongside the stories they tell. However, it's clear that listing of such things, with the protection it should bring, is patchy; I wonder if that was to be put forward now for listing if it would be successful? (More about listing, and indeed conservation areas, very soon, with some updates).

All of which ramble (including along the Millenium Way) wasn't actually what I intended to write much about today, when I started it was to be about this story in today's Scotman: http://thescotsman.scotsman.com/scotland/Return-of-the-common-man.4933244.jp but hey. This is one of those projects where, thankfully, lottery cash is being given, and it started me off on some frenetic googling to see what more I could find. So to save others the bother, here is some of what came up on screen:

"This is a unique collection of world historic significance... Despite its character as a working class city, public art in Glasgow largely ignored labour as a theme. Where it is recorded, labour is most often represented by classical maidens as at the Stock Exchange, or by medievalised workers on the City Chambers, or even by cherubim operating machinery. Adam's Maryhill stained glass panels are a dramatic exception... " the rest is here: http://www.glasgowwestend.co.uk/people/umaryhill.php and here: http://www.glasgowwestend.co.uk/show.php?contentid=942

and here: http://www.maryhill.org.uk/news/?nv_uid=14

More delving brought up this excellent collection of images, showing just how beautiful these windows are (Biff, hope you are reading this): http://www.theglasgowstory.com/searchq.php?PHPSESSID=73110930d7bd6dc32b&qsearch=Stephen+Adam&iore=1

I have misappropriated one for the picture at the top, showing - yes, a gasworker.

"Gas Worker by Stephen Adam, c 1878. One of a series of twenty stained glass windows made for Maryhill Burgh Halls showing local trades and professions, this one depicts a gas worker stoking a furnace with gas plant in the background.

During the 19th century coal gas was widely used for lighting homes, businesses and public areas. The gas was produced by heating coal in an air-free retort (creating coke as a by-product of the process. The first gas companies in Glasgow were privately owned, but in 1869 they were purchased by the town council which established the municipal Gas Department.
Dawsholm Gas Works was built in Skaethorn Road, 1871-1872, at a cost of £160,000. It replaced the ageing Townhead Gas Works which had been established in 1817 and closed in 1874. The Dawsholm Gas Works consisted of a large complex of buildings including a red brick retort house, office blocks, houses and a plate girder railway bridge linking the site to the Forth and Clyde Canal. The site is now occupied by a housing estate."

Do keep in touch - thanks for the comments and the e-mails, I gather that as a group the blogs are being appreciated, and passed on, so keep 'em coming folks, and if any other refugee wishes to join in - please do, and send the link and I can add it to those on the right.

Nem

(No comments about being a gasbag... I have the delete key... ;-) )

PS Links for Biff, see comments:

http://www.theglasgowstory.com/imageview.php?inum=TGSE00707&PHPSESSID=73110930d7bd6dc32b

Tams and bonnets:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bonnet_(headgear)

CO's link:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Printer

Sooty's link:

http://www.eh8.org.uk/image/tid/15

Tartan Republic

As it's the year of Scottish Homecoming then there may be much Scottish stuff in my blog this year. Apart from that it's a country of which I am very fond, live not far from, and several good friends live there, consequently I am kept up to date with a great deal. So today I have decided to stick with Scotland, with some current news.

I understand that the Burns celebration (of which there will be many more in this anniversary year) held yesterday evening at No 5 Charlotte Square (see Tuesday's blog and more here: http://sites.scran.ac.uk/ada/documents/square/charlotte_square.htm) was a great success, with a talk by Prof David Purdie, http://www.davidpurdie.co.uk/ music by Rod Patterson, http://www.folkmusic.net/htmfiles/webrevs/cdtrax117.htm and good Scottish food and drink. Meself I feel pleased that Edinburgh World Heritage is opening the doors of its magnificent premises to residents of the city (and indeed anyone who cares to visit from elsewhere) and not just having 'invitation only' events for civic bigwigs, grands fromages and the like (which would exclude riff raff such as moi I fear). World Heritage Sites, with their 'Outstanding Universal Value', are there for us all, a theme I may return to at another date, given that the government is currently consulting on the future of them in this country. I may be an old cynic, but I can't help feeling that this 'consultation' http://www.24hourmuseum.org.uk/bristol/news/ART62789.html?ixsid= is geared towards downplaying them, as UNESCO has been critical of some of this country's stewardship. Treating them as a cash cow isn't really what it's supposed to be about, DCMS.

No 5 is actually owned by the National Trust for Scotland (as indeed is a great deal more of Charlotte Square), a body which has had its fair share of financial and other troubles in recent times; two pieces of news this week may relieve the gloom a touch. A new Chief Executive has been appointed, and it has been revealed in The Scotsman that a magnificent donation of £1.4m has been made by an American who has never actually visited the country. Here's an extract from Tim Cornwell's report:

"A MYSTERY American recluse who chose to put his cash into Scottish castles rather than US banks has handed over a gift of £1.4 million for the National Trust for Scotland, The Scotsman has learned.

The anonymous donor, who has no known Scottish connections, told NTS staff he was making the gift because he "had lost all trust in bankers and the US government", they said. He felt his money would be better going to a charity, or something he cared about – like Scottish castles. Little is known about the donor, who has demanded anonymity from the trust, though he is a reclusive, childless retired man, who has clearly saved millions but is probably not super-rich.He has asked for half of his £1.4 million gift to be spent on castles run by the trust, and the rest to be allocated to the Burns Birthplace Museum – a £21 million project to convert the poet's former home in Alloway, Ayrshire, which is due for completion next year.

Curt diCamillo, an architectural historian who heads the trust's US fund-raising arm, the National Trust for Scotland Foundation USA, said it was an extraordinarily generous gift. "It's astounding. It overnight doubled the amount of money we had sent to Scotland from here over the past ten years," he said."I don't think he's ever been to Scotland. He likes castles. A lot of Americans do – crenellated battlements, flags and knights. He's very, very reclusive."The $2 million gift was worth just over £1 million when it was transferred last year – it would have been worth closer to £1.4 million now. Nonetheless, the donation is a welcome shot in the arm for the trust.The organisation has an annual income of about £44 million, but has looked at closing some properties and selling its headquarters in Edinburgh's New Town amid falling visitor numbers and a funds shortfall. Lorna Stoddart, the trust's former director of development, and Johanna Gurland, a US fundraising consultant, worked closely with the donor. He plans to leave his Los Angeles home and its contents to the trust as well. " http://www.nts.org.uk/Home/

Curt DiCamillo, incidentally, also compiles the most amazing database of extant and lost country houses in Britain and Ireland online, the DiCamillo Companion, and 2009 is its tenth anniversary: http://www.dicamillocompanion.com/ and http://www.dicamillocompanion.com/Houses_danger.html worth reading.

In contrast, the worthy winner of this year's Carbuncle Cup for Scotland has been announced today too, so Glenrothes will be celebrating tonight - or not, as the case may be depending on which side of that particular fence you are on http://www.thecarbuncles.co.uk/ (and more here : http://independentrepublicofthecanongate.blogspot.com/2009/01/allan-murrays-plook-old-town-goes-toy.html )

The awards 2009 have not been without incident however, as Alan Dunlop, Glasgow architect, has thrown a very public hissy fit as apparently some have been (shock) critical of his Glasgow towers: http://www.architecturescotland.co.uk/news/1195/Dunlop_hits_out_at_Carbuncles.html

I can't really feel too poor diddums for Mr D, a man who thinks buildings should not be listed, who has little time it seems for history, and who also wrote (no idea why) a critical piece about ICOMOS http://blog.icomos-uk.org/2008/09/24/scottish-world-heritage-sites-in-the-wider-european-context/and Edinburgh World Heritage in a past AJ. Well OK, man's entitled to an opinion, but that opinion has been seized on by others (mostly other architects - I wonder why?) and repeated on various websites. The problem is, his opinion seemed to be unrelated to any insight or knowledge of which he was blethering. Not sure this whole thing will have made him any more than a laughing stock, although, to steal a phrase, no doubt he continues to be a legend in his own lunchtime. http://www.architecturescotland.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1023

Fellow architect Allan Murray seems not to be getting a totally smooth ride in BD http://www.bdonline.co.uk/story.asp?storycode=3132399 over his designs for the Edinburgh (or indeed as some have dubbed it 'Murrayburgh') 'SoCo' site either, where the dreadful fire destroyed many WHS buildings, although. as ever, the councillors on the planning committee were quite happy to allow the plans to sail through, making such insightful comments as "It will be a bonny addition to the city" (see the Independent Republic blog for more). Ye gods.

From the nasty to the nice - another small but interesting scheme from Edinburgh World Heritage, which links in with yesterday's blog about shop frontages, is here: http://www.ewht.org.uk/Historic-shop-front-to-be-revealed.aspx


Yes, that does contain my least favourite phrase about returning to former glory, but apart from that, I look forward to seeing this particular eyesore improved and a sensitive frontage re-introduced, as EWH has done in other places. What a terrific building though, and how good that it has remained as unspoiled internally.

You have to wonder, however, what planning vacuum allowed this particular eyesore to happen in the first place, and what the owners were thinking of. When you consider the pleasing signage on that old picture of FW Woolworth from yesterday, we aren't really improving our public realm greatly in so many cases when it comes to this type of sign, are we?

There's so much more to write about Scotland, but for today I leave this with

Brewery of the Week (number two in an occasional series):

http://www.caledonian-brewery.co.uk/

One of my favourites.

Cheers!

Nem

Pick 'n' Mix

Actually,

with the demise of Woolie's, I wonder if you can still pick 'n' mix?

Sad that such a national institution as Woolworth's has gone down the financial pan, I have very fond memories of it from when I was a child. There was a tiny branch near my home. I recall dark wooden floors, dark wooden interior with goods laid out behind small (glass?) upstands on wooden counters. As soon as I was old enough to clasp a coin or two of my own pocket or birthday money, off I went to browse. My mother's birthday gifts were bought there - plain hankies to be embroidered with her initial in wobbly chain stitch, and a memorable Mothering Sunday plastic basket of plastic anemones, which she greeted with what must have been feigned pleasure. The girly joys of a first bra (probably a 28AA whether I needed it or not and I think it cost a shilling, but so much better than a Liberty bodice with rubber buttons for suspenders, even if it did still have to be worn under a St Michael vest) and make-up to be tried in a gaggle behind the outside lavs in the last year of primary school (Miner's - bright pink, shocking blue - gorgeous) were acquired from Woolie's. What, I wonder, will happen to those Deco exteriors which have been a feature of high streets great and small for so many decades? Despite the changes in signage over time, it was still often discreet and didn't overwhelm the building. I suspect that we will get nasty plastic frontages (Iceland has bought a number), and many a store will vanish altogether. Among my favourites are the huge block with a parade of shops at ground level in Carlisle built in local red sandstone, and the tiny store in Barnard Castle. The one in the historic pic is one of those in Liverpool, Wavertree Road.

I don't have any pictures of my own, but I found this on t'internet (well worth a browse at the others in the set too): http://flickr.com/photos/seant_25/2878744406/

One day I will learn how to do all that stuff with links hidden in text, like Gervase does on his blog, but I haven't yet got that far.

News of new blogs which I am certain will be of interest, we at the Republic seem to be developing a 'Bloggers' Circle'. First up is another from a CO who is being coy about identity but no doubt will soon give the game away to those who have regularly read his calm contributions in other places: http://conservationofficer.blogspot.com/

and the second is an additional refugee from another place: http://hazel-abearoflittlebrain.blogspot.com/not of little brain at all, in reality, but I hope she will keep us updated with her exploits in delving into archaeology in deepest Wales along with tales of house updating in the Frozen North.

Perhaps we should call ourselves Grumpy Old Bloggers, the GOBs for short; although one of our number is a GOB in spirit but not yet in years, he assures me he's been working at it since he first wore long tweed trousers.

Clicking on the links in the Followers' pics at the right will, I have found, also bring you details of the blogs. If you are a Blogger, then your dashboard will give you fresh posts of all blogs you follow. If anyone, Follower, Blogger or not, wants an alert from me when I update this do send me an e-mail (see profile) and I will add you to the growing list.

Jon Maine (see The Merchant of Shepton Mallet) has sent me this link to an album of 'before' pics to which he will add, as and when, updates: http://picasaweb.google.com/jonmaine/OldPhotos#

If anyone is having trouble with the comments section, also let me know.

Apologies to people who have sent news and fresh listings and pics which I haven't yet incorporated, time is short at the moment but it's not forgotten.

In yesterday's comments Gervase raised the subject of the sad news of the impending demise, after a long campaign, of the colliery headstocks at Annesley, Notts, http://www.savebritainsheritage.org/news/and there are song lyrics and a poem. The latter is connected with something on my list of 'to write', the 'Treasured Places' exhibition in Edinburgh, but that's for another day.

Happy blogging, do keep in touch - it can get lonely at the end of this Republic outpost mud track.

Nem

PS See comments, here's the link: http://www.cumberland-news.co.uk/1.350359

It's a mad mad mad mad world?

Certainly it is as far as planning is concerned. The news that the third runway at Heathrow has been OK'd by HM Gov wasn't a surprise, but it isn't welcome news in this outpost of the Republic. Seems flattening historic buildings, and the village of Sipson http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sipson http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/video/2009/jan/16/heathrow-third-runway-sipson(one of the buildings is pictured above) isn't considered to be damaging to the environment, and we can fly our way out of global warming. More about that another time. I have, though, signed up the Republic to own a bit of the action, and urge everyone to do likewise:

http://www.greenpeace.org.uk/

However, when it comes to planning, there's nothing to beat hearing of local democracy in action. Naturally all those who serve us on planning committees are the cream of councillors, with no hidden agendas and on the side of historic buildings surely? Well, maybe not....

http://independentrepublicofthecanongate.blogspot.com/2009/01/inside-minds-of-edinburghs-plannning.html

If you really want to see the Planning Convenor of City of Edinburgh Council in full dynamic action in the City Chambers though, our old pal Youtube can oblige:

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=DTmsuJBwlVk

But be warned, the excitement may be too much for those of a nervous disposition.

It isn't only Edinburgh it seems; according to architecturescotland's Peter Wilson:

"Angus Sheikhouse

Still in the Highlands, two interesting tales this week from the world of planning. The first concerns the application on behalf of Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid al-Maktoum, the Crown Prince and ruler of Dubai, to add a two-storey lodge to the 14 bedroom mansion on his Inverinate Estate in Wester Ross. Not just any old extension, mind you, but one split into three blocks containing penthouse chambers, a dining room, kitchen and a further 16 bedrooms with en-suite facilities and living areas. The local planning officers, bless their cotton socks, felt the design was “inappropriate and insensitive” next to the Victorian mansion and recommended that the application be refused. The same officials had some more interesting comments attributed to them in the press, not the least of which was that the proposals were “more akin to development found in business parks or halls-of-residence”. And of course there was a single objection from a member of the public who thought the proposed buildings were “like something you would find in the Arabian desert”. Fortunately the members of the Ross, Skye and Lochaber area committee are made of sterner stuff and approved the plans by nine votes to three on the basis that “the sheikh and his family are tremendous landowners and buy everything locally when they visit”. In any case, according to councillor Biz Campbell, “design is in the eyes of the beholder”.

Which brings me on to the second part of the story, an unconnected application lodged this past week for 5000 new homes on the Earl of Moray’s land at Tornagrain, between Inverness and Nairn. Designed to “new urban” principles by Andres Duany and scheduled to house 10000 (2 per unit, so clearly all DINKY’s* - new urbanism indeed) the £1.3m new town is due to begin on site in 2013, with developer Moray Estates expecting construction to continue for a further 35 years. Naturally, given the sheer size and impact upon the local environment, full and rigorous scrutiny of the application will be the order of the day and I expect the good Highland councillors to take the kind of pragmatic approach pioneered at Trumpton in Aberdeenshire and echoed at Inverinate Estate when making their decision. Astonishingly, some business people in Scotland actually want to reform the planning system.(* Double Income, No Kids.)"

Great stuff!

The Hootsmon has more details and quotes:

http://heritage.scotsman.com/scotland/Billionaire-sheikh-wins-fight-to.4872444.jp

including this:

"The present Inverinate House was built 1929 to replace an earlier 1880 rebuild, following a fire in 1864. While it is not a listed building, planners said it was a fine example of Scottish vernacular architecture of its period, and lay within the Kintail National Scenic Area and special areas of conservation."

Severin Carrell in the Guardian has more from the planners, who didn't really seem to like the plans at all:

http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2009/jan/15/highlands-dubai-sheikh-maktoum

Meanwhile, that must watch (at least by Norfolk Conservation Officers and the like, who avidly sit glued to it to spot such things as illegal additions to listed buildings) Channel 5 telly prog 'Build a New Life in the Country' has exposed another glitch in our planning system, this time it seems that honourable breed the Estate Agent has been leading one couple astray where planning is concerned, and naturally they didn't think it wise to check before spending their gadzillions:

http://new.edp24.co.uk/content/news/story.aspx?brand=EDPOnline&category=News&tBrand=edponline&tCategory=news&itemid=NOED19%20Jan%202009%2018%3A24%3A39%3A853

Oh dear, oh dear. Who would have thought it? It will be interesting to see how this one pans out. (Pans! Geddit? Potato store? Oh OK.)

Apologies for the blog interruption, a serious family illness has been occupying much of my time, but I hope to be resuming normal service as soon as possible, as there is a backlog of news both good and bad and in certain cases, downright ugly. Thanks to those who have sent items, the e-mail is on my profile, and all comments/discussion welcome.

Nem

PS - well done Gervase - another Blogger!

http://caiusplinius.blogspot.com/

Love the jumper...